England's Historic Seascapes: Scarborough to Hartlepool

Cornwall Council, 2007. https://doi.org/10.5284/1000201. How to cite using this DOI

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Digital Object Identifiers (DOIs) are persistent identifiers which can be used to consistently and accurately reference digital objects and/or content. The DOIs provide a way for the ADS resources to be cited in a similar fashion to traditional scholarly materials. More information on DOIs at the ADS can be found on our help page.

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Cornwall Council (2007) England's Historic Seascapes: Scarborough to Hartlepool [data-set]. York: Archaeology Data Service [distributor] https://doi.org/10.5284/1000201

Introduction | Seascapes Character Types

Recreation

Introduction: defining/distinguishing attributes and principal locations

The Type Recreation includes the following sub-types:

  • Holiday Parks;
  • Parks & Gardens;
  • Dive Sites;
  • Angling Sites;
  • Seaside Entertainment;
  • Sports Facilities;
  • Coastal Heritage;
  • Marinas.

Tourism is an important source of income and employment for the coastal region within this study area, and includes Scarborough - 'Britain's first seaside resort' (Waters 2005, 51). The coastline, with its small villages and fascinating and beautiful range of scenery - from high cliffs and deep clear water to sandy coves and pretty fishing harbours, attracts many tourists in pursuit of open-air leisure activities. These include walking, bird watching, sunbathing, golfing, climbing, camping and wildfowling, as well as popular water sport activities such as sea bathing, sailing, diving, windsurfing, angling, water and jet-skiing. Visiting coastal heritage sites is also becoming increasingly popular, with Scarborough and Mulgrave castles and the Abbey at Whitby attracting many tourists (DTI, 2002).

Historical processes; components, features and variability

Dr Robert Wittie is said to have unintentionally launched Scarborough as Britain's' first real seaside resort after he published a booklet called Scarborough Spaw in 1660 and advocated its medicinal 'cistern' waters as a cure for virtually everything. An impressive spa building was eventually erected to cater for the mass influx of people who visited the springs here. In 1737 the spa was attracting around a thousand visitors per annum (Waters 2005, 51).

The spa water did not impress everyone, however. The following conversation between Samuel Weller and John Smauker is recorded in a local guidebook of 1880:

'Have you drunk the waters Mr Wellers?'
'Yes' replied Sam.
'What did you think of 'em sir?'
'I thought they was particularly unpleasant'.
'Ah! You disliked the Killybeate taste perhaps?'
'I don't know about that - I though they had a very strong flavour o' warm flat irons!'


Waters (2005, 51)

Many visitors still use the spa and frequent the surrounding area with its hillside walks and gardens. Others now choose to sample the delights to be found further along the bay where funfair rides, amusement arcades, public houses and other enjoyments of a modern seaside resort attract the majority of today's crowds (Waters 2005, 56) (Figure 9.74 ).

Luna Park fairground South Bay, Scarborough

Figure 9.74.  Luna Park fairground South Bay, Scarborough

Numerous hotels were also erected and form a familiar component of these seaside towns. Holbeck Hall Hotel at Scarborough achieved world-wide fame in 1993, when the unstable cliffs upon which it was built gave way, taking with them the hotel and much of the garden area below. Today the site is just a green slope where the mudslide has become grassed over (Waters 2005, 45).

The Promenade Pier in Scarborough's North Bay, constructed between 1866-8, was another recreational facility intended to cash in on the lucrative tourist trade in this area. By 1889 this iron-built pier had become rusty and unsightly and was refurbished with shops, a caf�, ladies cloakrooms and retiring rooms. In the winter of 1905, however, a destructive storm caused irreparable damage to it and the pier was dismantled (Waters 2005, 34).

Outdoor swimming pools were another, once familiar, sight at both Scarborough and Hartlepool (Figure 9.75) in the early 1900s. Scarborough had outdoor pools at both the North and South Bays. Today most of these pools have become derelict, either having been grassed over or left to ruin and barely distinguishable from the rocky foreshore. One pool still remains in use at Scarborough, and is one of the few remaining outdoor pools left in the country (Waters 2005, 87).

Hartlepool outdoor swimming pool (©Hartlepool Arts & Museum Service)

Figure 9.75. Hartlepool outdoor swimming pool (©Hartlepool Arts & Museum Service)

Such pools were seen as a modern-day replacement for the 'health-giving' dips in the sea which first became popular with the aristocracy, but later with everyone, after doctors advised that sea bathing was a health-giving pastime. Males were advised to bathe for five minutes before breakfast while women, children and invalids should bathe more often but only for two minutes each time. It was common, even in the 1800s for men to bath without clothing, while women wore specially adapted frocks. The invention of 'bathing costumes' developed from crude alterations to ordinary clothing whose design progressed to specially designed gowns and swimwear (Waters 2005, 36).

Other well-loved coastal amenities include beach donkeys (Figure 9.76), aquariums, pleasure gardens and parks. The cliff gardens and parks, with their picturesque walkways, boating lakes, fountains, flowerbeds and bowling greens, were appreciated for their peace and tranquillity. The Valley gardens at Scarborough were described in 1928 as 'one of the beauty spots' and were, before modern traffic, a quiet place of solitude where families would gather to feed the swans and to picnic on the benches provided nearby. These gardens were often based on foreign themes, such as the Italian Gardens that were built close to the spa or the oriental garden at Peasholm Park. Today these parks and woodlands continue to be maintained by the local council authorities, with dedicated staff to care for all the flora and fauna to be found there (Waters 2005, 80).

Beach Donkeys at Sandsend (© Whitby Museum)

Figure 9.76.  Beach Donkeys at Sandsend (© Whitby Museum)

In 1845 the York to Scarborough line was opened. Scarborough was already a watering place and seaside resort with over 150 years of experience of receiving visitors drawn by health reinvigoration or pleasure reasons and has continued to maintain its position as a major British seaside resort throughout the railway age and into the modern era. Various tourist visitor markets are attracted and catered for here, from the family day trip visitor to those moving to the Yorkshire coast on retirement as well as the business conference delegate and the overseas student (Morfin 1991:167).

Another popular pastime is the collection of fossils, in particular in the 18th and 19th centuries. The alum measures are rich in fossils and ammonites have been turned up in profusion. From the mid-18th century larger marine fossils were also recognised, including teleosaur, ichthyosaurs and plesiosaurs. These were in great demand by collectors, and the fears for the loss of some of the best specimens led to the founding of Whitby museum in 1823 (Pickles 2002:17).

Change has been continuous over the years at these seaside towns, as the taste of their visitors have changed. Just after the Second World War, however, Scarborough began to develop itself as a major 'modern' leisure resort. The North Bay became popular for those wishing to avoid the crowds of South Bay, who were disparagingly termed the 'candy-floss and lollypop brigade' (Waters 2005, 90-1).

The 20th century also saw the development of the heritage industry. A 'heritage coast' classification scheme was initiated in 1972 to protect coastline of special scenic and environmental value from undesirable development and the whole of this stretch of coastline is designated as a Heritage Coast. Coastal heritage sites and facilities, such as the abbeys (eg Whitby Abbey), castles (e.g. Scarborough, Figure 9.77), cathedrals and churches, the countryside (eg North York Moors National Park), historic houses, Roman remains and museums, are increasingly being used to promote promote tourism in this region.

Scarborough Castle (© Dave Hooley)

Figure 9.77.  Scarborough Castle (© Dave Hooley)

Local people also developed their own recreational activities such as keeping racing pigeons, whippet racing, horse racing, cricket and football (Waters 2005, 96).

The chalet and caravan parks mainly comprise late 20th century standard structures served by simple concrete-block ancillary buildings and tarmac or concrete drives. Theme Parks vary in form and extent but most have late 20th century concrete-block buildings and many essentially temporary features. Some golf courses also were established in the 19th century, but most are relatively modern. They are usually landscaped, with many earlier historical features removed or damaged (eg field boundaries). Clubhouses and ancillary buildings are usually modern concrete-block structures. All recreation sites have extensive car parks.

Until the later 20th century recreation in this area has had a seaside bias. The more recent trend toward 'quality' tourism has encouraged more visitors to visit 'heritage' sites and explore inland landscapes.

The increasing popularity of sailing and other water-sports has led to a recent proliferation of marina developments along this stretch of coast. Most of the ports and docks now serve as mooring areas for private yachts and pleasure boats, indicative of this new leisure industry (Waters 2005, 65). Marinas exist at Scarborough (Figure 9.78), Whitby, Hartlepool, and along South Gare.

The marina at East Harbour, Scarborough

Figure 9.78.  The marina at East Harbour, Scarborough

Other valued recreational activities include angling and diving. Recreational sea angling ranks as 'one of the most popular leisure activities in the British Isles' (North Eastern Sea Fisheries Committee 2006, 5). Important centres for charter boat fishing include the ports of Whitby and Scarborough. Since the early 1990s, however, the charter angling industry has gone through a period of slow decline, attributed mainly to falling North Sea fish stocks, in particular cod species, as well as an increase in the number of private vessel owners. Nevertheless, alternative species such as sea bass, tope and pollack are increasing in abundance throughout the region and may provide new opportunities for the charter angling industry and anglers alike (North Eastern Sea Fisheries Committee 2006, 5).

Popular foreshore angling venues include Staithes (famous for its cod and its lobsters which thrive in this rocky, kelp filled area), Port Mulgrave (with its deep gully within casting distance of the pier at high tide and the scar beyond the breakwater at low tide) and Runswick Bay (a good venue for winter cod). Sandsend has good fishing from the beach, the car park, the scar or the cliffs; Upgang is a snag free and productive area for fishing, especially during summer and Whitby is renowned for its pier fishing and its cod, with one of the largest cod ever landed on rod and line around the British coast caught here in 1992 (56lbs 6ozs). Saltwick Bay is a sandy beach which gives way to rock and slate scar at either end; Robin Hood's Bay is also renowned for its cod, which are attracted by its impressive scar and many kelp filled gullies; and Hayburn and Cloughton Wykes both known for their ability to throw up some very good cod fishing, and Cayton Bay is a large sea fishing venue good on either the rocks or the clean sand.

With regards to diving, the North Sea is one of the world's best areas for wrecks as there are hundreds if not thousands and many of them are unknown and little dived. As a result there are many diving clubs along the north east coast. Founded in 1960, Scarborough Sub Aqua Club is one of the longest established scuba diving clubs in England. Other Sub Aqua Clubs exist at Whitby and Hartlepool.

Values and Perceptions

Much of the charm of this coast lies in the wide variety of pursuits suited to those who prefer leisure and pleasure rather than the more hectic and mainstream attractions of some other seaside resorts such as Blackpool and Brighton. This applies to both locals and visitors alike.

Ambivalence is perhaps more pronounced here than in any other Type. Some people loathe recreation sites, not just because they are seen as blots on the landscape but also because they are the physical manifestations of the annual invasion of tourists bringing unwanted values, cars and noise to the county. For many people, recreation sites represent Yorkshire's real economy, and security for the future. Visitors who have enjoyed glorious summer holidays develop deep affection for these sites.

A description from Seas & Shores of England, Edmund Vale, 1936:

'The individuality of the North Sea is striking. The tide is peculiar. The atmosphere, both in the actual and the poetic sense, is very different from that on the other coasts. The north-easter is the prevailing wind. It is a land of perishing winters, bracing springs, torrid summers, and amazingly colourful autumns. And you can see a rainbow over the sea at sunset which you cannot do on the other coasts.

As to the poetic kind of atmosphere, it is conveyed through many subtle hints to the eye and ear - the red tiled roofs, the distinctive fishing-craft, the churches, the ubiquitous fig tree, and the local accent.

And the folklore of this part is augmented equally and oppositely by the losses suffered through coastal erosion, and also by the amazing finds to be had on the seashore, amber, jet, cornelian, agate, bones of primeval elephants, stone coffins. These losses and finds have fostered a tradition of church bells heard ringing under the waves, of cities seen in the deeps on still days, with dim figures moving in their seaweed tangled streets, of bearded, hairy mermen caught by fishermen in their nets'
(Vale 1936, 85).

Other attractions to this area come from the legends that have come to be associated with certain places, such as the famous monkey-hanging legend that is connected with Hartlepool:

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Whether it is true or not, people in Hartlepool love the story. Even the local rugby team bears the proud nickname, the Monkeyhangers The local Rugby Union team Hartlepool Rovers are known as the Monkeyhangers. Click to see their site.. Which is strange, because, for a long, long time after the supposed event, people from neighbouring towns used the tale to mock Hartlepool and its inhabitants, and Hartlepudlians were often on the receiving end of the jibe: 'Who hung the monkey?'. In 2002 H'Angus the Monkey, the mascot of the town's football team, was also elected mayor of Hartlepool after a victory by the team.

The use of some of these places as settings in fictional literature also attracts many visitors, such as Bram Stoker's most famous novel, the vampire tale Dracula published in 1897, which had many parts of it set around the town of Whitby, where he was living at the time.

Mina Murray's Journal

24 July. Whitby.--Lucy met me at the station, looking sweeter and lovelier than ever, and we drove up to the house at the Crescent in which they have rooms. This is a lovely place. The little river, the Esk, runs through a deep valley, which broadens out as it comes near the harbour. A great viaduct runs across, with high piers, through which the view seems somehow further away than it really is. The valley is beautifully green, and it is so steep that when you are on the high land on either side you look right across it, unless you are near enough to see down. The houses of the old town-- the side away from us, are all red-roofed, and seem piled up one over the other anyhow, like the pictures we see of Nuremberg. Right over the town is the ruin of Whitby Abbey, which was sacked by the Danes, and which is the scene of part of "Marmion," where the girl was built up in the wall. It is a most noble ruin, of immense size, and full of beautiful and romantic bits. There is a legend that a white lady is seen in one of the windows. Between it and the town there is another church, the parish one, round which is a big graveyard, all full of tombstones. This is to my mind the nicest spot in Whitby, for it lies right over the town, and has a full view of the harbour and all up the bay to where the headland called Kettleness stretches out into the sea. It descends so steeply over the harbour that part of the bank has fallen away, and some of the graves have been destroyed.

In one place part of the stonework of the graves stretches out over the sandy pathway far below. There are walks, with seats beside them, through the churchyard, and people go and sit there all day long looking at the beautiful view and enjoying the breeze.

I shall come and sit here often myself and work. Indeed, I am writing now, with my book on my knee, and listening to the talk of three old men who are sitting beside me. They seem to do nothing all day but sit here and talk (Stoker 1897, 69).

Research, amenity and education

Although the tourism industry has had a profound impact on the area's recent economy, infrastructure and social structure, the potential for meaningful and relevant research of the Recreation Type itself is limited. Nevertheless, work on this aspect of North Yorkshire's history should be encouraged, not least because future developments may be better predicted and planned for with the benefit of a fuller understanding of tourism's history. The Type is, of course, an amenity for many people; although it also reduces the amenity value of certain stretches of coastline for others.

The Dig, Dive and Discover project which took place at Hartlepool from April to September 2006, funded by the Heritage Lottery Fund's 'Young Roots' initiative, aimed to make young people more aware of their local heritage and enable them to share it with the community. In this project, Hartlepool Sea Cadets were encouraged to explore Hartlepool's rich maritime heritage, in particular looking at shipwrecks. The Cadets worked together with Hartlepool Diving Club, Hartlepool Reference Library and The Nautical Archaeology Society (north east). They also attended a web design workshop at Hartlepool College of Further Education where they learnt how to publish the story of their project on the web. The story appeared in the local press and on local radio and television.

The north east Nautical Archaeology Society (NAS) recently carried out a pilot study looking at material recovered from wrecks by sports divers and recorded hundreds of objects from only three or four dive clubs (Petts and Gerrard 2006, 201).

Another initiative by the NAS is the 'Adopt a Wreck' programme and awards scheme, which is part of a wider 'Dive with a purpose' scheme to encourage divers and others to appreciate and preserve our underwater heritage. The hope is that groups will look at a site more closely, and take on a minimum level of stewardship, monitoring how the site changes over time.

There is also a clear opportunity for substantial community involvement in the recording of sports and leisure sites.

Condition & forces for change

Recreation at the coast is an increasingly significant and varied element of leisure activity, whether for tourists or for local residents. Tourism is now one of England's most important industries. Increasing cheapness and more attractive climatic conditions offered by the package holiday to the Mediterranean and beyond has increasingly spelled the demise for some of these seaside towns, however, although many are now beginning to reinvent and re-launch themselves.

With the rise in available leisure time and the active promotion of the tourist industry in recent years, pressure for access to the coast has grown. The leisure industry also requires development to provide appropriate facilities such as roads, footpaths, car parks and hotels. The effects of tourism on archaeological remains derive partly from such development, and partly from the activities of tourists, and may have a damaging impact on archaeological remains, resulting in the physical removal or disturbance of sites (Fulford et al 1997: 188).

Leisure activities themselves have varied impacts on archaeology. Activities such as walking, riding, cycling, biking or off-road vehicles all create increased erosion, threatening archaeological remains through exposure, disturbance or removal. Attempts to manage them through the provision of defined areas such as marked footpaths may have a mitigating effect, but the attraction of many of these activities is the free use of open country. Many of the most attractive locations are the most vulnerable, such as sand dunes, and these are also likely to be archaeologically important. At the other extreme, some activities will have little or no impact. Swimming, surfing or windsurfing will have little effect beyond human pressure on the foreshore. Jet-skiing and the use of power boats will generate wash which could cause erosion in more confined locations. Diving itself may be archaeologically harmless, but provides the opportunity for interference with archaeologically important remains (Fulford et al 1997, 188).

Recreation facilities along this stretch of coast receive no specific protection, although being generally found on the coast they do often fall within designations such as SSSIs, SPAs, SACs, RAMSARs, Heritage Coasts and National Parks and Nature Reserves. Recreation itself, however, is regulated by local and harbour authorities and by recreational groups.

Ranks of chalets and caravans, masses of parked cars, the startlingly neatly trimmed fairways and greens of golf courses, together with their visitors make these prominent features of the landscape today, particularly in the summer months of the main tourism season. Some caravan parks and camping grounds, however, can almost vanish in the winter. Most chalet/caravan and theme parks obliterate earlier historical features but golf courses often retain fragments of field systems or ancient woodlands in their landscaping, although the coherence and legibility of these features is reduced by their fragmentation. Golf courses are still being created and chalet/caravan parks expanded. Theme parks are also still being established.

Sites which would once have been ignored, such as World War II defensive structures and post-war industrial remains, are now being carefully recorded and are increasingly being seen as an important part of the region's heritage, enjoyed by visitors and locals alike.

Rarity and vulnerability

Within the Type, gradual refurbishment and updating threatens some early features. Constraints on conspicuous development along this coast are beginning to exert control on the locations and forms of Recreation complexes

Recommendations

The continued expansion of the Type should be controlled as a principal concern is that other more important Types are imposed upon and either damaged or destroyed by it. At present, the greatest threats are from golf courses and caravan parks. Their construction usually involves the dismantling of existing landscape features in the creation of new ones. Screening (trees or shrubs) around camping and caravan parks will lessen their impact on neighbouring historic seascape character Types.

Diving clubs dive many of the unknown wrecks and could potentially provide local archaeologists and historians with a wealth of new and valuable information on these sites. Such collaboration is on the increase and further detection, registration and research of objects from the submarine cultural heritage should be encouraged. Continued awareness among sport divers as to the historical and archaeological value of the regions wrecks must be promoted. Such initiatives as the Dig, Dive and Discover project at Hartlepool and the NAS 'Adopt a Wreck' scheme should also be encouraged elsewhere, serving as a valuable way in which to build peoples awareness of their local heritage and enable them to share it with the community.

Public presentation and interpretation of the heritage encountered when pursuing recreational activities should be provided where appropriate.

Petts and Gerrard (2006) points out that 'there are whole classes of sites relating to sports and leisure in the 20th century which have remained relatively little researched in this region, including public houses, cinemas, and bingo halls....It is particularly important to ensure that remains related to regionally distinctive leisure activities, such as quoits (the throwing of horseshoes at a pin in the ground), pigeon racing and greyhound racing, are preserved. There is also a need for a better understanding of nationally popular sports, such as football, cricket and tennis' (Petts and Gerrard 2006, 195).

The rise of foreign travel has had an adverse affect on this region's coastal resorts, such as Redcar, Saltburn and Seaton Carew. Further work could usefully define and describe the novel elements of their landscape (Petts and Gerrard 2006, 196).

Sources

Publications:

Department of Trade and Industry, August 2002. Human Activities in the SEA 3 Area

Eastern Sea Fisheries Committee, March 2006. Recreational Sea Angling Diversification Study. Summary Report.

Fulford, M et al , 1997. England's Coastal Heritage. A study for English Heritage and the RCHME. English Heritage.

Herring, P, 1998. Cornwall's Historic Landscape. Presenting a method of historic landscape character assessment.

Morfin, J, 1991. Railways to the Yorkshire Coast in The Yorkshire Coast, edited by David B Lewis. Normandy Press, 166-179

Petts, D and Gerrard, C, 2006. Shared Visions. The North-East Regional Research Framework for the Historic Environment. Durham County Council

Pickles, R, 2002. Historical Overview, in Steeped in History. The Alum Industry of North East Yorkshire, 5-17

Stoker, B, 1897. Dracula.

Vale, E, 1936. Seas & Shores of England. Batsford, London.

Waters, C, 2005. Then and Now: Scarborough. Tempus

Websites:

www.yorkshire.com

www.countryside.gov.uk/LAR/Landscape/DL/heritage_coasts/index

www.britainexpress.com/Where_to_go_in_Britain/tour/ne.htm

www.whitby.co.uk

www.staithes-town.info

www.robin-hoods-bay.co.uk

www.scarborough.co.uk

www.runswick.com

www.thisishartlepool.co.uk

www.portcities.hartlepool.gov.uk

http://www.ironstonemuseum.co.uk/ironstoneindustry.htm

ww.scarboroughsubaquaclub.net

http://www.literaturepage.com/read/dracula-69.html

http://www.thisishartlepool.co.uk/history/thehartlepoolmonkey.asp

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dracula

http://www.rjh.f2s.com/monkey/index.htm

www.nasportsmouth.org.uk/wreck/adoption.php




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